Saint Florian de la Riviere A&S champion doco 2017 - Camino del Nobles Journey May 2016 to April 2017

Lady Iglesia Delamere

Camino del Nobles Journey May 2016 to April 2017

Prowess

Definition

The definition I have chosen for prowess is great ability or skill.  The word prowess comes from the Middle English prouesse, with its first known use in the 13^th century.^{1 (merriam-webster.com, 2017)}

Achieving Silhouette, Singing, Instructing and Some Spooning

My personal prowess journey this year has consisted of 3 parts, to me prowess is a journey not a destination – it’s about striving to be the best you can be-

• My journey into 1500 German fashion, and specifically undergarments to better support the form I wish to achieve (from the portraits).
• Further honing/learning more period part singing, with a small group, 1-2 times a month.
• Teaching period rounds at Warwick Feast of Friendship (based on Master Crispin Sexi’s research)
• New skill – Spoon carving

My tailoring journey continues this year with particular attention to 1500 German styles.  One particular garment has always been on my ‘that’s amazing and I can never create something that awesome’ list, is this particular portrait (below) – taken from the larger painting Hunting Near Hartenfels Castle.  This year I start my journey of learning the skills to make this ensemble a reality with the bodice form (soft form under bodice – using cording).

(Cranach, Lucas. 1540)

The bodice (almost finished product) involved testing various mediums for use in a corded bodice (linen, hemp), at multiple thicknesses – for durability, shrinkage/stretch and also shaping.  As part of the process I was also assisted to make multiple permutations of the pattern before the final bodice pattern was completed (credit to Honourable Lady Christine Bess Duvant for initial patterning and sizing; and credit for patterning final shape and size to Lady Aeron Lassair).  The new or improved processes I used included (see Appendix A1) -

·         Analysing how to achieve the low back without losing support
·         Tacking stitches to improve alignment
·         Pre washing and testing different cord types for stretch/durability
·         Textile medium analysis (use of coutil for minimum bulk while still maximum structure)
·         Quilting to improve stability of fabric and structure
·         Making own bias to allow blending of edge into garment
·         Testing fabric under chemise to ensure it didn’t show through (skin coloured coutil)

As a result of my part singing practise, as well as my own personal practise multiple times a week, I performed a period round, holding my own part, at Feast of Friendship, as well as leading a ‘call and response’ type song to entertain whilst people were collecting their food (at same event).  At the Feast of Santiago (July 2017), a small group of us – me holding my own part- also sang multiple rounds and period part music as background entertainment for the populace.  I was also asked and performed a period round at Gregory Tortouse’s Master of Defence peerage ceremony at Rowany Festival 2017 – in memory of Leonore D’Scotia’s favourite song.  We performed Dona Nobis Pacem (see Appendix A2 for Dona Nobis Pacem version we used).  I feel my period part and round singing prowess journey has developed leaps and bounds this year, particularly since I also taught my first A&S class this year – with rounds from the Lant Roll and Winchester Anthology (credit to Master Crispin Sexi) at the Feast of Friendship, Warwick.  See Appendix A3 for music

During Great Northern War 2016, I spotted someone I did not know whittling some wood.  My curiosity got the better of me and I sat down beside Master Waldo Turner and asked him about his craft.  He showed me what he was working on (a spoon) and handed me the knife to make my own under his instruction.  I spent about 3 hours sitting there just learning about the wood and how best to get what I want out of it, then probably another 2 hours the following day.  I still have no spoon (just half a spoon, as I am now working on getting a suitable knife to finish the piece), but I now have the knowledge he imparted to finish it.  This was my new skill for Prowess – spoon carving. 

Partial spoon carving, July 2016

Courtesy

Definition

I choose to define courtesy as good treatment of others (particularly in the face of discourtesy).  The word courtesy comes from the Middle English corteisie, from Anglo-French curteisie, from curteis, first known use in the 13^th century.^{1 (merriam-webster.com, 2017)}

An Uncomfortable Journey

(prefaced with the knowledge that these are things that are done not normally discussed)

My personal courtesy journey has been successful in encouraging others in multiple ways.  I exhibit courtesy most through my encouragement of others to excel in their own interests and being there to support them in their own striving for prowess and excellence.  I have exhibited this this year in my encouragement for others (4, namely) to enter Arts and Science competitions (three individuals in Aneala, at Bal D’Aneala, October 2016; and one to enter the Capsule Wardrobe at Rowany Festival, April 2017).  It is important to acknowledge the great works we see others doing – and in this way I have shown courtesy as well as piety to them and their arts.

In the past year, through courtesy and piety, I have made two recommendations to the Crown – and both of those recommendations have since been fulfilled by the Crown.  I am glad to see the recommendations submitted by the populace are indeed well considered.

Multiple people have loaned my garb to enable their game to continue – with also my promise of assisting them to make garb when they are able.  I have made a point to acknowledge people for their great works (for instance a fighter who made his own tabard, who I congratulated at Rowany Festival).  I attempt to show courtesy in all that I do and assist those that may not ask – as well as those that do.  In courtesy to other players I limit my modern impact into people’s SCA game by playing in a period way (nil to minimal mundanities – including hiding my mobile, esky’s etc. and removing myself if I do need to use any mundane items).  I also find it quite important to encourage this in those around you, so often bring extra feasting gear to encourage others to use period items (tankards etc.).  In our household, we encourage all to purchase their own or borrow from us feasting gear to avoid the mundane creeping into the SCA – for courtesy to the game and to each other.  These are not grand things but make a big difference to people’s game.

I have very strong feelings that with a consort relationship comes responsibility.  That fighter goes onto the field in your name – you owe them to be inspiring and be worthy of that honour.  As such I always ensure my fighter is sufficiently fed and watered, and gets any assistance they require regarding getting in and out of armour or carry their equipment (that one is usually refused but the genuine offer is important).  I even requested the favourite fighter snacks of my consort before the November Crown 2016 Tournament to ensure I could make them available to him on the day.  Too many people take the consort relationship for granted; if I am honoured to have a fighter on the field, as long as they are honourable on the field and enjoy their time, I am happy.

Piety

Definition

My chosen definition of piety is devotion, fealty, loyalty, allegiance, respect for elders and peers, mercy, humility and compassion.  Many sources seem to list piety as directly related to religious reverence but I chose not to use this definition due to the SCA’s separation from religion.  Comes for the French piete piety, pity, from Old French, from Latin pietat-, pietas, from pius dutiful, pious.  First known use is circa 1500.^{1 (merriam-webster.com, 2017)}

Service to others

I have shown piety this past year through my assistance to the injured, and also my adherence to my moral code, respecting my peers and my fellow SCA players.  I have helped others in need – for example we have multiple players camping with La Parentiara at Rowany Festival that are unable to lift certain things or do certain jobs – I personally took on some of these roles, as well as delegating to others to assist.  I also feel it is important for those people to feel that they are not a burden – so it was important to involve them in other duties that they were able to complete without injury or embarrassment.  As warden of the La Parentiara campsite for Rowany Festival 2017, I have learned that piety requires a balance of graciousness, asking for help, accepting help and humility.

We had one instance where a fighter came back from War at Rowany Festival significantly injured.  I assisted this fighter to get out of armour and be made comfortable as well as checking on him multiple times to ensure he did not need anything or require me to contact St Johns for further assistance.  I don’t see this as unusual – but I suppose this fits under the piety virtue (I would hope any SCA player would have done the same service for someone in need).

In piety, I also accepted the honour of being fought for in the recent November Crown Tournament by Lord Christopher Longstaff.  It was an honour just to be asked, but a privilege to walk beside him on his journey before the crown.  I also made multiple recommendations to the Crown (as per my entry in courtesy).  I taught a class on singing and also sang as a performance at multiple events (all detailed in prowess).  Upon request for judges I also offered my pious service for the Bal D’Aneala Arts and Sciences competition (German themed).  It was both an informative experience with entries ranging from food to fashion.  I have learned a lot about how a well-run arts and sciences competition can give productive feedback to its entrants.  I also assisted the steward for both set-up, pack-down and being a runner for the event.

I gave my time and devotion to set up and pack down of Gregory Tortouse’s Vigil (Rowany Festival 2017).  His station required a medieval setting and ambiance – I spent the better part of my day ensuring everything was in order to allow the vigil to go smoothly (including delegation of duties, tensioning tents, clearing mundanities, covering esky’s, and creating general ambiance).  See Appendix B for visual of part of our campsite

Franchise

Definition

Consistent nobility, constancy of all other virtues, freedom.  I interpret this as upholding my reputation and position in the society as a Lady.  Derived from Middle English, from Anglo-French, from francir to, free from franc.  It first use appeared in the 14^th Century.^{1 (merriam-webster.com, 2017)}

Dressing and Acting to my Station

Franchise is not just about dressing to one’s station – but also about acting to one’s station (as such I believe it to be closely linked to the courtesy and piety virtues).  As part of my Franchise journey I painted my Crown consort’s list shield.  This enabled him to better portray his station in presentation to the Crown and populace at the recent November Crown 2016.

List Shield of Christopher Longstaff (now Lord)

I do my best to dress appropriately to my station and therefore ensure I always carry the accoutrements needed for each outfit I choose to wear (be it specific jewellery, headgear, shoes and/or sashes/belts).  See Appendix C for examples of ensembles.  I try to ensure completion of outfits to allow a full idea of what a person from that period and that station would wear as an ensemble, not just the dress or singular parts.  As an example of this I am often approached (this Rowany festival, multiple times), to take photos, or make comment on my Spanish 16^th century outfit³.  I personally do not believe this attention is about one piece – but about the bearing I have in that outfit – granted by the combination of wearing all the right things together.  It is the combination that gives this bearing; headgear (cofia and tranzado), dress (adorned tastefully and to the portrait), underskirt (adorned accordingly), the sash, rosary beads and fabric pouch.  This outfit befits my station as a Lady of Lochac and I will proceed to ensure that future outfits are completed thusly to ensure my outfits match my station.  It also helps to genuinely approach being a noble with piety and courtesy.  One can wear all of the correct clothes in the world and still be verbally displeasing to the crown and the populace.  I know how to introduce people – and at Rowany Festival often do introduce people – with titles and the respect they deserve.  Polite conversation has never harmed anyone.

It’s been important to me to also ensure my consort and household act and dress to their stations.  As part of this I ensure things like headwear and tabards are maintained.  I also facilitated the newest squire to our household to get a representation of our household device (La Parentiara household) so his shield could be painted to befit his station as squire to Earl Sir Edmund of Shotley.  This will allow his franchise journey to be fruitful.

Largesse

Definition

I define Largesse as generosity; largesse can be generosity of skill, time or item.  The word derives from Middle English largesse, from Anglo-French, from large.  First known usage was in the 13^th Century. ^{1 (merriam-webster.com, 2017)}

There is Always Time for Pants (clothing, knowledge and time)

·         I assisted my crown consort by painting his list shield (also as listed in Franchise). 

•      I have never made pants before this year – and my first attempt was as a gift to my consort – they turned out rather well, but also meant that my second attempt was much more informed.
•           I also made a shirt for my consort.
•         I gifted my time and skill to creation of tokens for the Bal D’Aneala (screen printing on fabric napkins – example available).  I cut the template used for the printing – others did the printing.

Bal D’Aneala token, October 2016

• I loaned my garb and feasting gear to those that needed it for Rowany Festival (as per courtesy).
• I gave the gift of knowledge in the form of teaching Lant Roll rounds at the feast of friendship (as per my entry under Prowess).
• I give the gift of knowledge to those that seek information on period part singing and also garb construction – I’ve also helped some of our newer players borrow garb until they are able to make some.

Prudence

Definition

Prudence is the discipline of oneself, by use of good judgement and consideration of risk.  The word prudence comes from Middle English, From Anglo-French, from Latin prudentia.  First known usage was in the 14^th Century^{1 (merriam-webster.com, 2017)}

Preparedness – another awkward discussion of service related to wisdom (these are things that are done, not usually discussed)

I spent a lot of time sharing my knowledge of Rowany Festival and the society as a whole with the two ‘fresh to Rowany’ campers.  It is important to pass on the wisdom you have.  I also spent a lot of time this year (Rowany festival and GWN specifically – though not limited to those) seeking out those with greater wisdom than I in multiple subjects to share their knowledge and wisdom with me.  I gained a lot of wisdom through these interactions –

• Costuming - from a lovely group of Costuming Laurels (or is the collective noun a flock, or a murder, for Laurels?) - their Excellencies Mistress Gabriella della Santa Croce, Mistress Marguerite de Rada y Silva, Mistress Hunydd verch Madyn Duy and Mistress Clara van der Maes.  Their tips and tricks are always full of great wisdom and practical advice (and wit at the same time).
• Woodworking (spoon carving) – Master Waldo Turner.  He gave his time willingly to teach me a new skill (see also Prowess).
• Singing – The Honourable Lady Aeron Lassair, the great enabler of period part singing in St Florian De La Riviere.

I had to be well informed of the rules of Rowany Festival – as Warden for the La Parentiara campsite.  I made multiple decisions on behalf of the 13 people camping with us to ensure their safety and the safety of those around us (one example was excluding a fire from our campsite).  Our Rowany Festival was a safe one due to the precautions we took to ensure the safety of our fellow campers.  I ensured we had sufficient food and drink (all of our campers), to avoid sickness and other issues.  Due to my own knowledge of dehydration and exhaustion I was able to assist one fighter who had pushed himself further than his body wanted.  Through prudence he was looked after, hydrated, kindly instructed to rest, then shower, then have an early night – all was well received and the fighter was all the better for it the following day (meanwhile I was monitoring to establish if St John’s needed to get involved).

As a close friend of Gregory Tortouse, I was very much looking forward to his vigil (incipient to Master of Defence), however prudence told me this was not where I was required.  Some people were having trouble finding the vigil – so instead of attending I sat in our lounging pavilion directing people to the vigil site.  This was a service I performed gladly for a dear friend (dare I say, almost family), this is where he needed me (although he doesn’t know that) and where prudence told me I was required.  It was indeed wiser to ensure that the multitude of people who sort to give him counsel could find him (including the crown), than that I, one person and a non-peer, gave him counsel.

Bibliography

¹ Definitions and first known uses compiled from merriam-webster.com, 2017

²Cranach, Lucas. Hunting near Hartenfels Castle, 1540.  , German 1472 – 1553.(http://www.clevelandart.org/art/collection/search?f[0]=field_artist%3ALucas%20Cranach%20%28German%2C%201472-1553%29)

³Iglesia Delamere, Rowany Festival 2017.  Wearing Spanish 16^th Century

Weiditz, Christoph.  Authentic Everyday Dress of the Renaissance, 1529.

Anderson, Ruth Matilda. Hispanic Costume 1480-1530, 1979.

Carpaccio, Vittore; Two Venetian ladies. 1490

Stryk, Antoinette.  2016, Blog of Mistress Ant Blowme of Saint Cloud -

http://squtemporarily.blogspot.com.au/2016/04/pelican-outfil-4-cloud-collar-design.html

Photo credit as stated

Physical Items to show for this documentation-

• Bal D’Aneala napkin token
• Germany Under bodice
• Partial spoon carving

Appendix A – Prowess

1. A selection of progress shots from my corded bodice experiment

Cord test (patent pending cord tool -mower cord) 

        

Reinforcing edge to avoid stretch

Testing visibility under chemise

Mid construction – cord in, basted

Bias edge finishing                                                  Applying bias to the edge (around a corner)

Entire portrait Inspiration for this garment

Cranach, Lucas. 1540

2.    Dona Nobis Pacem Round for Gregory Tortouse’s MOD Ceremony

Note – this version taken from the Lochac Snogbook ASXLVI, Duchess Constanzia Moralez Y de Zamora

 3.    Lant Roll and Winchester Anthology(credit to Master Crispin Sexi)

Appendix B – Piety

Partial view of our campsite (Rowany Festival 2017)

Actual campsite consisted of 4 rounds (like the one pictured on the right), five double bell tents (like the left and centre tents), as well as a rectangular lounging pavilion not pictured, on the road side, and a kitchen tent and shower tent, hidden in the back

Appendix C – Franchise

Ensemble examples

Spanish 1600 (two examples)

Two different headwear options (one being Hood with pearls, lined in silk and a beaded cap – the other being a striped cofia) with tranzado (not pictured, but in the back of both photos), sash, rosary beads, partlet, jewellery, underskirt, striped dress, striped chemise with decorative edging on cuffs and collar (not pictured) and two different sleeve options.

                                       

                     

Photo Credit to Rachel Vess,                                           Photo credit Rachel Vess

Rowany Festival, 2017                                                    GNW, 2014 (apologies for age)

Inspiration from –

 

Weiditz 1529(see bibliography).

Anderson 1979 (see bibliography).

Timurid 16^th Century (credit to Ant Blowme of Saint Cloud for majority of the outfit)

Under tunic, embroidered overtunic with silk cloud detail, headgear (beaded in front, flowers in back), enamelled jewellery appropriate to the time, pants of the style (not pictured) and pointed toed shoes (not pictured).
                                                           

Photo Credit to Rachel Vess,                                                   Photo credit Brooke Perkins

GNW, 2016                                                                              GNW, 2016

Inspiration Based off research and work by Mistress Ant Blowme of Saint Cloud

http://squtemporarily.blogspot.com.au/2016/04/pelican-outfil-4-cloud-collar-design.html

Venetian Late 15^th Century

High waisted dress, sash, jewellery, sleeves (not pictured, as they were hot days), fabric pouch, straw hat and/or small Italian cap (references available), Mask – as this was a masked event, chemise with decorated edging on cuffs and collar.

Photo Credit - Anonymous                               Photo Credit – Brooke Perkins

Rowany Festival, 2017                                      November Crown, 2016

Based off-

Carpaccio, Vittore; Two Venetian ladies. 1490, as well as other Italian references of the time.